The Sulcata tortoise of North-Central Africa is one of the most popular and well-known pet tortoise types. They are also known as African spurred tortoises or spurred tortoises. Once rare in the United States, the Sulcata tortoise has shown a fantastic ability to adapt to many climates and habitats in captivity. Combined with their low cost and curious personality, they have become the most sought after by first-time tortoise owners.

Availability

Baby Sulcata tortoises are available from many sources, including local pet stores, reptile expos and breeders. All baby tortoises are captive bred, as importation has ceased. The pricing for a tortoise depends on size, age and even season; when more babies are available, the price can drop. Sulcata tortoises can also be adopted from rescues or families that are unable to care for them any longer.

Sulcata Tortoise Size and Lifespan

Hatchling Sulcata tortoises will be about 1 ½ to two inches in shell length. The growth rate is more diverse than other tortoises; 10-inch tortoises could be three years old or 10 years old. The variance is mainly due to temperature and care from the owner.
Many adults will surpass 100 pounds. Big females can range from 90 to 120 pounds. All Sulcata tortoises, especially males, can reach 200 pounds, but that is when the tortoise has reached old age. The tortoises grow quite fast for the first 10 years, and then their growth slows with age.

It hasn’t been determined how long a Sulcata tortoise can live in captivity as they haven’t been raised in captivity for long, but it is believed they can live for more than 80 years. Given a lean, high-fiber diet, captive-raised animals have higher life expectancies than wild counterparts.

Caging

Due to their size, Sulcata tortoises are best kept in an outdoor area. They can be kept there for most, or all, of the year. A desert-type set-up outdoors with a large grass area in the center and dirt around the perimeter is the recommended setting. The tortoise will “patrol” the border, so leave it unplanted. The tortoises are constant grazers and will eat any plants in the enclosure. Fragile plants will likely be destroyed.

An adult tortoise enclosure requires a sturdy wall at least two feet in height above the ground, as well as a foot below ground to prevent or discourage the tortoise from digging. Concrete masonry blocks work well, as does a well-built wood wall. See-through fences and walls shouldn’t be used because the tortoise will try to escape through or over something it can’t see through.

Young Sulcata tortoises should be raised indoors. Outdoor housing is acceptable when the temperature is in the correct range. It is recommended to grow the baby indoors for the first few years and then transfer it outside. The best enclosure for a baby tortoise is a shallow terrarium or plastic tub. Focus on the substrate, lighting, temperature and cage furniture.

Baby tortoises should have access to a humid hiding area. This helps their shells grow smoothly and keep them hydrated. When a baby is raised without proper humidity, it can form a bumpy shell, which is known as “pyramiding.”
To help tortoises with winter climates, an enclosure can be built in a garage. Garage enclosures should be well heated to keep the tortoise comfortable, and the temperature should be checked regularly.

Sulcata Tortoise Substrate

Sulcata tortoises will burrow more if there isn’t a proper hide box accessible. When the tortoises do dig, these spots should be filled with large stones or bricks to prevent future digging in that area. Single tortoises can burrow naturally, but multiple tortoises can “stack up” in the burrows and block the deepest ones, not allowing them to exit.

For substrate, there are many different options. Cypress mulch can be great bedding. Coconut bedding or peat moss is also good. Outdoor enclosures don’t need added substrate, provided that the soils are natural and not tainted with fertilizer. Include a few larger, flat rocks to help file the tortoise’s nails.

Lighting and Temperature

Outdoor Sulcata tortoises can be tolerant of many temperature ranges. High temperatures are not a problem is they have a shaded area to escape from the sun. They can also handle cold temperatures as low as 45 degrees Fahrenheit with no problems.
When nighttime temperatures drop below 50 degrees, provide a heated hide box that maintains at least 55 to 60 degrees, with the mid-‘70s being the ideal temperature, or you should bring the tortoise inside. You should absolutely check on the tortoise if it is exposed to low temperatures to ensure it got into the heated hide box.

For indoor tortoises, they can be maintained at average room temperatures of 68 to 75 degrees. Provide a basking area heated by an overhead light in the 100 plus degree range. They need a UVB light to help process the calcium in their diets. Keep the light on 12 to 14 hours a day and turn it off at night. The heating can be provided 24/7.

Sulcata Tortoise Food and Water

The Sulcata tortoise is always an eager eater and will rarely turn down food. For adults, the best staple diets are various dry grasses and leaves. They will graze on lawn grasses, grape leaves, hibiscus leaves and flowers. Most will also eat hay. However, baby and small tortoises may have a harder time eating the tough grass and hay.

Spring mixes work well, especially for babies. Include kale, collard greens, turnip greens and any darker lettuce type. Mazuri Tortoise Diet can be offered occasionally to cover anything nutritionally. Feed the tortoise from a flat rock or shallow dish. Never feed the tortoise from gravel or diet, so it doesn’t eat the soil or rocks.

If you live in areas with prolonged dry months, such as Los Angeles, offer water to keep the tortoise hydrated. Use a shallow, low-sided dish for water. This makes cleaning easy, which must be done regularly, as most tortoises will soak and defecate in the water dish. Tortoises that live in areas with regular rainfall will drink from puddles or leaves.

The tortoise needs to be soaked with shallow, warm water once or twice a week for 15 to 30 minutes to get fully hydrated and clean the shell. A soft toothbrush can be used to remove dirt from the shell. Baby and juvenile tortoises can dry out quicker, so soak them up to three times a week.

Health and Handling

Purchase an alert, active Sulcata tortoise with bright, clean eyes and no discharge from the nose, or buy one from a reputable source. These tortoises can suffer from most of the common reptile health problems but respiratory infections are the most widespread. They are susceptible to respiratory infections if kept in cold or wet enclosures; they need to dry out.

Sulcata tortoises can get easily stressed out when overhandled. Always keep the tortoise right-side-up when holding. Adults are more resistant to handling. Avoid pinning them down or restricting them, especially when they are young. Older tortoises are usually more tolerant of people. - Allens Pet Center

 

Crested Geckos

Crested geckos are a low-maintenance pet and are well-suited for children or novice lizard owners who have little time to devote to their daily care. One of their distinctive features is their eyelashes, which is why they are sometimes called eyelash geckos. These lizards hail from New Caledonia, an island country off the coast of Australia. They were once thought to be extinct but were "rediscovered" around 1994. Since then, their popularity as pets has continually increased.

Crested Gecko Behavior and Temperament

Crested geckos come in a wide array of colors and markings (morphs). They get their name from the fringed crest that begins over their eyes and runs down their necks and backs, though the size of the crest varies.

Crested geckos have specialized toe pads that allow them to move along vertical surfaces effortlessly, and their prehensile tails add to their agility. They are also excellent jumpers.

Crested geckos usually have relatively docile temperaments, though they are a bit skittish and care is required when handling. They don't usually like handling, so avoid it if possible. They may try to jump away from you, which can injure them. Crested geckos may drop their tails if handled roughly or in an attempt to get away. Unlike other geckos, they will not regenerate their tails.

They will only bite if they feel threatened. Bites are startling; though they do not hurt, they are not strong enough to cause bleeding.

Housing

A minimum of a 20-gallon tall terrarium is sufficient for an adult, but a larger tank is better. Crested geckos are arboreal, active, and need lots of vertical space for climbing, so a tall tank is preferred. Two to three crested geckos can be housed in a tall 29-gallon terrarium. Males are territorial, so keep only one male per tank. You can use a glass terrarium with a screened side for ventilation, but some keepers prefer screened enclosures.

Crested geckos need room to climb, so provide a mix of branches, driftwood, cork bark, bamboo, and vines at a variety of heights and orientations. Add a variety of silk or sturdy live plants such as Epipremnum (pothos), Philodendron, Dracaena, and Ficus as they will hide in the plants for cover.

Every day, you will need to remove all uneaten food and spot clean to remove feces. Clean the entire terrarium and its decorations at least once a month using reptile-safe disinfectants. Depending on the substrate, you will need to replace it weekly or monthly to prevent bacterial growth.

Heat

As cold-blooded creatures, all reptiles need to regulate their body temperature. A daytime temperature gradient of 72 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit (22 to 26.5 degrees Celsius) should be provided for crested geckos with a drop at night to 65 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit (18 to 24 degrees Celsius). Monitor with temperature gauges to ensure the cage does not overheat. Crested geckos get stressed at higher temperatures. A low-wattage red nighttime bulb makes a good heat source, and it also allows you to view the lizard at night when they are most active. Do not rest a heat source on the top of the tank as these climbing geckos could get too close and get burned.

Light

Crested geckos are nocturnal; technically, they do not need special UVB lighting. However, some experts suggest that a low level of UVB lighting (about 5 percent) is beneficial for overall reptile health. Any added lighting will raise the temperature in the enclosure, so monitor that. Also, provide a gecko hideaway, so geckos can get away from the light if they want.

Humidity

Crested geckos need a moderate to high humidity level of about 50 to 70 percent. Get a hygrometer (humidity gauge) to monitor levels daily. Provide humidity with regular misting with warm, filtered water. Depending on your cage setup, you may need to mist it a few times a day to keep the humidity up. Always make sure the cage is well-misted at night when the geckos are most active. If you are not around during the day or cannot physically mist the enclosure, get an automatic mister or fogger to add humidity to the cage at timed intervals.

Specific Substrate Needs

Most pet owners use a substrate to line the bottom of the cage. When selecting a substrate for a gecko, consider pet safety, ease of cleaning, and if the substrate aids in retaining humidity. Ideal substrates for a crested gecko are coconut fiber bedding, moss, or peat. You can also use newspaper or paper towels, although these are not as attractive.

Crested geckos are somewhat prone to ingesting substrate while hunting; if this is the case for yours, use sphagnum moss (either alone or over another substrate like coconut fiber) or paper towels. Paper towels are recommended for juveniles as they are more likely to swallow other substrates accidentally.

Although attractive, gravel (or pebbles) is not a suitable substrate since it is difficult to clean thoroughly and regularly. Avoid reptile sand and non-organic soil substrate because these are swallowing hazards.

What Does the Crested Gecko Eat & Drink?

Since they are nocturnal, feed crested geckos in the evening. Feed juveniles daily and adults three times a week.

A commercial crested gecko diet is usually well accepted and is the easiest way to ensure a well-balanced, nutritious diet. Supplement that food with crickets and other prey insects (roaches, waxworms, silkworms). Avoid feeding mealworms, since they have a hard, undigestible exoskeleton. For variety and to allow the gecko to exercise his hunting instincts, feed as many prey insects at one time as the gecko eagerly eats.

Insects fed should be slightly smaller than the space between the gecko's eyes and should be gut-loaded or fed nutritious foods before feeding to your lizard. To boost your reptile's vitamin and mineral intake, dust the insects with a calcium/vitamin D3 powdered supplement three times a week. You can dust prey items with a multivitamin powder supplement once a week as well.

Crested geckos will eat fruit several times a week. Try mashed fruit or jarred baby food. Favorites include bananas, peaches, nectarines, apricots, papaya, mangoes, pears, and passion fruit.

If you have difficulty finding a commercial gecko diet, provide a combination of insect prey items and fruit. This option is not the most balanced diet, but it will suffice in a pinch or for a short period. In this case, your best insect choice is crickets with the occasional addition of other insects for variety.

Provide a small shallow water dish with fresh water daily, though they will likely prefer to drink water droplets from leaves in the humid habitat. - The Spruce Pets